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Sea-born Denizen, Leroy Grannis (photographer)

In August of 1994 I spent the whole day with Leroy Grannis, going through his voluminous binders of photos looking for a few to fit with my "classics" section of my magazine, The Surfwriter's Quarterly.

LeRoy was kind and accommodating and full of Aloha.

He made me feel that I, like him, was looking to further the history of surfing in all of it's quirks, moments, and greatness.

I look back now and realize that the 27 year old version of me had no idea just what kind of greatness I was spending time with.

He gave me photos of Mickey Dora, Micky Munoz, Tom Morey and other greats and wanted nothing in return.

It was just a Sunday for him and a day full of reverence for what to us was a tribe, a history, and a time of timelessness.

Thank you Leroy. You gave me a great gift that I will never be able to repay.

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